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Amid pandemic, Long Island restaurants find new way to survive by opening markets

lukas by lukas
January 19, 2021
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Amid pandemic, Long Island restaurants find new way to survive by opening markets
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A Grandma pizza, pasta e fagioli and …. paper towels, a bottle of Chianti and a few flour? On-line restaurant ordering bought barely bizarre final spring, when empty grocery store cabinets compelled some eating places to hawk adds-on from eggs to rest room paper and hand sanitizer to stuck-at-home regulars.

Whereas these surreal days have largely light, some operators found that promoting groceries was not only a approach to serve their communities and preserve workers employed, but additionally opened up a essential further channel of money. The end result: A handful of these markets have develop into everlasting, with a number of extra within the pipeline.

“COVID had dropped us to our knees. You needed to pivot,” recalled Lisa Cusamano, a associate of Pentimento, of the darkish time final spring when the Stony Brook restaurant closed briefly and a few workers had been laid off. Pentimento had celebrated its twenty fifth birthday with a celebration just a few months earlier than the pandemic struck, and chef-owner Dennis Younger had been retired to Florida for awhile. However after COVID swept in, Younger returned to Lengthy Island as he, Cusamano and remaining workers fired up a takeout operation and sturdy out of doors eating, then reopened the eating room with restricted seating in late June — including crops as an alternative of plexiglass, and protecting the bar closed.

Early on, mentioned Cusamano, they observed demand for grab-and-go meals and high-quality meals that may very well be cooked at residence, in addition to takeout fatigue. “Folks had been struggling to get completely different objects, and we noticed the necessity — and we additionally had the product,” Cusamano mentioned. “We mentioned, ‘the group wants this they usually really feel protected right here. So, why not attempt it?'”

In order that they took the chairs and tables out of their most important eating room, repurposed picket wine crates into shelving and remodeled the house into an Italian-esque market stocked with cheeses, chops, pasta, olive oil, bottles of wine and home favorites corresponding to pesto, dips, house-cured salumi and Caesar salad kits. Later, they added dishes that may very well be reheated or cooked at residence, corresponding to falafel, lasagna and the kitchen’s well-known “rooster beneath a brick,” offered as a marinated break up rooster breast that may very well be seared or thrown on the grill.

“It was a problem, however we had enjoyable with it, and tried to seek out cool merchandise,” mentioned Cusamano. The inventory grew and grew — to recent greens, spice blends, and distinctive must-haves corresponding to cheddar-bacon bread twists, Italian IPA, yellow-tomato ketchup, delicate home potato chips and Butter of Parma. The kitchen additionally boxed up a number of firsts, corresponding to turkey pot pie and meat loaf. “The purchasers are principally dictating what they want and wish, and we preserve evolving,” he mentioned.

As Pentimento’s market grows, others proceed to get into the sport. Two eating places, 317 Principal Avenue in Farmingdale and The Oar in Patchogue, are set to debut their very own markets in coming weeks. With out additional adieu, listed here are locations you should purchase, or quickly purchase, groceries alongside your lunch or dinner order.

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Pentimento Restaurant + Market (93 Principal St., Stony Brook): With the DNA of a chef’s pantry and the appears to be like of an Italian deli, Pentimento’s new market is a charmer. Chief among the many treasures made or butchered by chef-owner Dennis Younger: Spreads, pesto, burrata, recent pasta, house-cured pancetta, focaccia, chops which can be brined or marinated in home, and grab-and-go dishes corresponding to lasagna. The market additionally gives non-public buying to those that are anxious to be round others, and limits the market to a few clients are a time. Extra data: 631-689-7755, pentimentorestaurant.net

Assorted goods for sale in the market inside
Assorted items on the market available in the market within Pentimento in Stony Brook. Credit score: Yvonne Albinowski

Konoba (486 Gerard St., Huntington): Croatian wine is a largely undiscovered gem and was nary to inconceivable to seek out till 2020, when proprietor Daniel Pedisich started to promote bottles of it from his Huntington restaurant. Ditto for the Croatian cabbage rolls (sarma), borek pies and Croatian tea cookies, chocolate, jams or plum-butter unfold (prodavaka). Seize these from cabinets contained in the restaurant or add them on to an order of cooked dishes, from burgers topped with whipped feta or brudet, Croatian seafood stew. Extra data: 631-824-7712, konobahuntington.com

Misplaced & Discovered (951 Beech St., Lengthy Seaside): When you’re not but prepared to drag up a stool to a high-top for chef Alexis Trolf’s dry-aged rib-eye with bleu-cheese butter, now you can seize mentioned steak from the butcher counter that debuted right here summer time. Hulking veal chops, duck breasts, house-ground burgers and porterhouse steaks reduce to order await, too, as do canned anchovies, tomatoes and distinctive condiments. Money solely. Extra data: 516-442-2606

Chef-owner Alexis Trolf readies two dry-aged ribeye steaks
Chef-owner Alexis Trolf readies two dry-aged ribeye steaks at Misplaced & Present in Lengthy Seaside. Credit score: Yvonne Albinowski

317 Principal Avenue (317 Principal St., Farmingdale): Lacking chef Eric LeVine’s soup dumplings or sweet-potato gnocchi? Come early February, get pre-prepared variations to make at residence from a market set to debut behind the large house. “You’ll be capable to feed two folks for a similar value,” you may pay at a desk, mentioned LeVine. “We’re continually innovating, and that is the following development.” The market’s cabinets might be stocked with an eclectic, international array that mirror’s 317’s ethos: Pastas, sauces, mac-and-cheese, chops, fish, sauces and even dim sum might be offered, as will gelato. Extra data: 516-512-5317, 317mainstreet.com

Tullulah’s Tiny Market (12 Fourth Ave., Bay Shore): This summer time, chef-owner Steven Scalesse and his spouse, Nicole, transformed a personal eating house contained in the restaurant right into a candy little light-flooded market whose cabinets are loaded with drinks you would be exhausting pressed to seek out elsewhere — uncommon pet-nats and pure wines, Italian liqueurs, and cordials made by bartender Bert Weigand. Additionally offered listed here are jars of native horseradish, cold-pressed juices, salumi and cheeses, plus home pickles, pumpkin-seed pesto and objects made by the kitchen. Extra data: 631-969-9800. tullulahs.com

Items for sale at Tullulah's Tiny Market in
Objects on the market at Tullulah’s Tiny Market in Bay Shore. Credit score: Yvonne Albinowski

The Oar Steak & Seafood Grille (265 West Ave., Patchogue): If it has gills, chances are high The Oar has served it on a plate — however like everybody else, this 34-year-old Patchogue fixture has needed to adapt. In early February, they’ll open a digital market promoting seafood and shellfish — filets, clams, oysters, lobsters — for pickup alongside a dinner of, say, lobster wontons and rooster Richard. “Due to the pandemic, we’re all the time attempting to assume outdoors of the field, and we’ve got numerous clients who don’t really feel snug coming into the restaurant however nonetheless need our dishes and sauces,” mentioned co-owner Lindsey Chalifoux, who runs the restaurant together with her dad, Richard Blakeslee. The net market can even provide sauces, corresponding to fra diavolo or bleu cheese, to slather throughout stews, pastas and wedge salads. Fish might be offered by the piece, reasonably than the pound, and costs might be on par with space fish markets, Chalifoux mentioned. Extra data: 631-654-8266, theoar.com

Corin Hirsch is a Lengthy Island native who covers meals, drinks and eating places for Newsday, which she joined in March 2017.



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